I am ready to get on the road by 7.15, great, it is cool and I can have a good day making distance as well as having plenty of breaks.

Problem is the bike does not start with the electric ingnition that I usually use so I start with the kicker and take it to the workshop. One of the neighbours sees me and calls the guy as the place is still closed. He eventually shows up looking tired and takes his time to look at the ke, I am getting fed up and consider leaving (wish i had).He seems proud of himself that the rear brake light now responds to the front brake too! He takes a extra cable from the battery to make an extra connection for the starter to work. I dont have a good feeling about this.

I set off and soon realise the horn does not work, I have noticed that this is very important not just to tell others you are behind them but also it seems to indicate the electrical health of the bike. I had decided to have the bike double checked anyway so when I spot a bike shop I bigin to pull in and as I am mounting the pavement in front of the shop there is bad burning smell and smoke coming out of the bike just under the front of the petrol tank! So I quickly turn off the ignition.

There is a woman (W) working on a bike who calls this other man out and they quickly (he is instructing and she is doing the work) disconnect the battery. I am told to take the luggage off as the saddle has to be removed to give access to the wiring.

Underneath is a complete mess, there has been a short circuit and about 20 cables have mostlymelted and stuck together. shortly afterwards the guy is all dressed up and leaves and W settles to do the work, she is the mechanic. I had asked and assumed that it is possible to rip out the whole cable section and replace with a new one, they are reluctant to do this or dont have the part, unsatisfactory.

she settles down to individually prize apart each cable using a razor blade! I am very surprised she does not cut herself or me as I decided to lend a hand to make things quicker. I also went and had breakfast at the earlier stages, they dont seem to consider eggs vegetarian here, so when I asked for vegetarian she offered me a piece of bread and soya sauce.

The separation of cables takes about 2 hours, including insulation taping each burnt cable, and I am tired without having done any riding today. she suggests I have a lie down and I crash out on the three seater settee at the back. The business and home are usually separated by a single door. I get an hours sleep. There is little point worrying, nothing I can do. eventually I am hearing sounds of indicators and horn being tested and she lets me know that the bike is ready, after about 4 hours. I get her to double check my rear brake too as the guy had rushed it in the dark last night, I have more confidence in her work. There is little point going back to the other guy, wont be able to explain things and he probably does not care anyway.

I do couple of hours, there is little point pushing on hard as there seems to be a certain pace to this journey of mine.

I stop for lunch near Dakha and meet a very kind old man who gives me some rice, salad veg and soya sauce for dipping. He keeps topping up the greens and I realise if I sit there this can go on for ever, I decline his offer of having a beer with me. He declines payment too!

At one of my rest stops I use the poncho which is still damp from the rain on the way to Denang, as ground cover. This does not stop the ants from nipping though and I have to move within 20 minutes.

The countryside is changing and becomg drier.

I have about 20 km to  Pleiku when I feel totally shattered, it is about 5 and I have done 140 in about 4 hours. I lie on the grass by the side of the road to catch my breath to make it to Pleiku. As I open my eyes there is a variety of people gathered around me wondering if I am OK. One young man (Su, pronounced SH) asks if I am drunk, which I am not due to riding and I explain that I am very tired and need a place to rest so I can move on.

He invites me to his place for the night! A lot of his neighbours appear to be family. Family is very important here, he tells me at times up to six generations live together. There is a guesthouse nearby and I am happy to move on as soon as I have recovered but i am asked to stay for the night. I get a shower (water from a big bucket poured out using a plastic ladle) and am fed. Su asks me to stay in the area to experience Tet, the new year.

I meet lots of uncles and cousins, he has about 20 cousins, sorks in Saigon and has recently graduated as a CPA (accountant). Later a group of his friends turn up and even more food is on the floor before us. I am offered some rice wine and after I have downed two shots i am told that susequent people also have to drink the same amount so best to slow down (I was drinking it like Vodka) this is fine by me any way.

We go for a coffee later on, Vietnemese style, quite nice. There are about 10 of us, all below 25, except me of course.